S to N swaps - Cosmetic version for a 2nd Gen Sv650S

So you're considering swapping fronts from an S model to an N. There are actually 2 swaps people refer to when they talk about this. The cosmetic fairing/light swap, and the ergonomics swap. 

Unfortunately I haven't done a 1g myself, but I've done a couple versions on the 2g. 99-02 won't be VERY different, but you may have some extra steps or skip some steps. 

If you're ALSO doing the handlebars conversion, you should read the other part of the blog. That will also make the gauge cluster mounting a breeze.

Fairing to N light (style change retaining clipons and ergos)

Let's start with the fairing. On a 2g, it's actually fairly simple and only take a few parts. If the S parts are in good shape, it can actually net some money back selling those. 

Things you'll be keeping

  • Handlebars, controls, ignition etc
  • Cluster
  • Turn signals (maybe)

Things you'll be shopping for

  • Headlight and bucket - avoid the ebay cheapies... the light output is not great. I don't really know much about the LED or foglight alternatives, so I'll stick to oem-style stuff for this.
  • Headlight brackets (triangles) - OR some aftermarket option. 
  • Fork brackets for attaching the triangles to the forks - OR some aftermarket option. 41mm is the fork diameter. you can use 1.5-2" exhaust clamps, or some plastic ebay thing, or something. 
  • Mirrors - whether barend or regular style
  • Mirror perches or other mounting option - if you're doing regular N style mirrors, you'll need an N clutch perch with the hole for the mirror, as well as the N bracket for the master cylinder that has the hole for the mirror.

Things you'll be modifying/making

Things you'll be removing

  • S headlight
  • Fairing plastics (both the black inner and the colored outer)
  • Front and side fairing mount brackets
  • S mirrors

 Tools you'll need:

 Standard assortment of allen wrenches, sockets

  • JIS screwdrivers (may be ok with philips for this exercise)
  • Soldering kit of some kind (maybe)

Getting the S Stuff Off. 

The easiest part heh. 

  • Unbolt the mirrors and set them aside (2 bolts each holding them to the main fairing stay)
  • unscrew the little triangle covers on the inner fairing
  • unscrew the top 2 JIS/Philips screws at the very top of the fairing
  • Unbolt the allens on holding the sides of the fairing near the frame
  • Unbolt the allens holding the inner fairing to the outer (right under the handlebars
  • Unseat the color part of the fairing and the headlight from the main fairing stay. Just kind unhook the part where the mirror bolts go and wiggle it off the side brackets. CAREFUL  you'll need to hold it with one hand, and unplug the headlight connector with the other. I haven't actually found a way to do the headlight connector with them still on the bike. 
  • Remove the inner fairing plastic from the fairing stay
  • Remove the gauge cluster
  • Remove the main fairing stay
  • Remove the side brackets. They're bolted into the frame from the inside. depending on you will likely need to pull up the gas tank to unbolt the side brackets but will usually be ok leaving the airbox on. Or remove the airbox to do it. 
congrats. you now have no lighting, mirrors, etc. your bike is now not street legal until you put something back on the front. If this was hard, call a friend cause it gets more difficult. If this took 5 minutes to do, why did you bother reading it :P
Ok, so now we need to make this bike streetable again. 
If you're doing the handlebar conversion, now is the time to remove the triple trees.... Hit the other article for that then come back here.
Fork Brackets and Triangle Brackets To Mount the Headlight
If you're using fork brackets that you can install without removing triples, put those on... somehow... depends on the brackets.
If you're using fork brackets that you have to slide on, pull up the top triple tree (big center nut and 2 bolts on the sides). If it doesn't move, give the forks a bit of wd40 and make sure you're moving it equally on both forks and steering stem. Don't worry, the bike isn't gonna fall over since there's still the castle nut holding it. 
Also unbolt the clipons off the forks. Slide them off, then the fork brackets on, then the clipons back on. 23Nm
Put the  top triple back on 23Nm for the fork bolts, 65Nm for the head nut
Attach the triangles to the fork brackets and the headlight bucket to the triangles 
A note on getting factory N brackets to work with clipons
The factory N brackets are just the right length to sit between the triples. Guess what else needs to sit there? That's right the clipons. 
If you weld, this is starightforward. Cut the extra length out and weld it back together. 
If you don't weld, and can't find someone to do it for you, you CAN cut them, drill 2 holes, and put bolts through. And then find someone to weld them :P Or decide they're solid enough.  (show shortened vs stock brackets)
S and N harnesses are different. On the N, all the relevant connectors are on the main harness. On the S, the lighting stuff is on the subharness you unplugged earlier. Remove that thing from the back of the headlight. You'll be canibalizing it cause you'll have nowhere to put 3/4s of it.
Take all the sheathing and electrical tape off and find the joints for the white and yellow wires. cut the longer sides out.
Remove the cap from the ground terminator. Find the running light ground and the ground for the main bulb that you'll be removing. Unpin them using a thin screwdriver. Once they're out, put the plate and cap back on
Also unpin the brown wire from the main plug. 
Here's what you should have left
And here's what you just got rid of
Now would also be a pretty good time to shorten and resolder some of the wires but I won't get into that. 
Tape up the connections.
Plug it all in inside the headlight bucket. You may need to tape up the harness more to make sure connectors aren't out in the elements.
Turn Signals
the turn signals from your fairing *should* be able to go onto the triangle brackets or the fork brackets. You may at most need to drill a hole...  
Gauge Cluster Mounting 
I'm assuming you've done some homework on mounting your gauge cluster again
If you diy'ed a bracket, you can mount the cluster flat on it, or get the N brackets.
If you're doing N triples, you need a couple brackets off the N, and should probably get the back cover. Parts #10,12,8 in this diagram

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