So in another post, I ranted about swapping the plastics to a headlight. This is related/unrelated because the "other" S to N swap is about the handlebars.
You should use the workshop manual primarily, this is just a supplement to it,and a few notes.
1g offsets are the same so you can swap tops onto either bottom. cable and line length still applies, but it's significantly simpler overall
Couple things to consider:
1) you need BOTH the N triples. can't just swap a top on. see this post: https://www.mad8v.com/blogs/blahg/2nd-gen-s-vs-n-triple-identification
OR some people drill holes in their S top triple and mount bar clamps... structurally "unknown" like nobody has any idea if this is dangerous or leads to damage... Not an option I like since I like having the bars attached to the bike with solid components, and not faith-based hardware.
2) you're gonna need longer... everything
3) you're gonna need a way to hang up the bike without lifting by the forks or triple
4) "while i'm at it" might as well... this may be a good time to do braided lines, probably a good idea to do steering head bearings on the new stem, etc. Maybe balance throttle bodies.
- upper and lower triple from an N. can't do with just a top triple.
- bar clamps
- N clutch cable - can't stretch the line into working. at least not without having problems
- N length brake lines (braided?) - can't stretch the lines into working. at least not without having problems
- brake fluid
- bearing grease
- N right control pod and throttle/return cables - the N cables don't work with the S throttle housing (that's why you need the pod). The S cables will be too short.
- either a bracket of some kind, or a plan for how you're going to mount the brake reservoir
here's what the S and N versions of the cable and control pod look like, as you can see you can't plug N cables into an S throttle housing
Also here's the difference between clutch cable bends and lengths
- Steering head castle nut tool. So you can torque the castle nut
- Brake bleeding stuff. lots of ways to do it from as simple as a hose and a water bottle to some air compressor powered vacuum thing...
- buy all the stuff... so you don't have a bike tying up your lift while you wait
- remove the front fairing since it will be in the way. procedure mentioned here. https://www.mad8v.com/blogs/blahg/s-to-n-swap-parts-list-2g
- Hang the bike off the ceiling. or a ladder. or tie down the rear and jack up by the motor. or flip your pegs and put jackstands under them, or whatever other way you plan to keep the front triple accessible
- remove the wheel, forks, fender, brake calipers, etc.
- lift the tank and remove the airbox
Do the thing
So now your nose is up, your forks are out, etc.
- pull all the controls from the clipons
- drill holes in the bars for the locating pins on the control pods (use your clipons to gauge where it goes)
- Move the controls over to the bars
- replace and route the clutch line the same way the old one was.
- put the controls on the bars. the pod and throttle are a little annoying to do later.
- remove the S triples. 1 big nut at the top, then castle locknut, then locknut.
- if you're replacing bearings/races hammer out the old races and install new ones
- put the new triple in. torque the castle nut (see manual for specs) and the lock nut. Then put the top triple on, then washer, then head nut. Don't tighten that yet since you need the forks in
- put the forks in. make sure everything is straight.
- tighten all the fork clamp bolts (2 on each side of the lower, 1 on each side of the upper).
- torque them!
- lower the bike.
- hopefully you didnt skip the 2 steps before lowering the bike and the forks are holding the bike.... otherwise figure out how to pick up the bike off the ground cause your forks bottomed out
- NOW, tighten the head nut.
- clamp the bars in
- run the throttle cable to the throttle bodies and adjust it
- plug in electrical connectors for the right and left control pods. don't forget the clutch switch and the brake light switch
- mount the master cylinder and reservoir. remember you had a bracket or a plan of some kind for hanging the reservoir?
- install brake lines (keep the fluid off the bodywork and wheel, it's nasty shit)
- bleed the brakes. I like reverse-bleeding them with a syringe, and then doing the pump-hold-open-close-pump method to finish them off
- Tighten everything up.
- adjust all the cables
- put the airbox and tank back (dont forget to connect the breather hoses)
- torque everything to spec
- reinstall front fairing
- adjust lever positions etc
make sure you're wearing every piece of gear you own since this is as much a test of how much you trust yourself as a mechanic as of the bike.
make sure your brakes work before getting rolling
Before heading look for cable routing issues etc at full steering lock. also make sure the brake lever doesnt touch the fairing at full left lock. and obviously that nothing hits your gas tank...
Feel for steering issues etc.
Feel free to adjust the bars, lever positions, etc. so that the new ergos aren't more awkward than the old. Your wrists should always be relaxed and your body held by your core...